
The Foods of Philadelphia
by Mark Glicksman
|Introduction|
|Soft Pretzels|
|Philly Sandwiches|
|Hoagies|
|Steaks|
|Where to Get|
|If You Can't Get There|
Most every city lays claim to at least one food as its own.
Some are absolutely wonderful - San Francisco has its
sourdough bread, Boston its chowder, Memphis its
barbecue, and Chicago its fabulous hot dogs! Philadelphia
surely possesses two of the best - the soft
pretzel and The Italian sandwich, a category that includes
both the hoagie and the cheese steak, among others.
You can find representations of these foods elsewhere.
But, only in Philadelphia and its environs can you find
the real thing. You might get a soft pretzel at a mall
in Cincinnati or a "Philly Cheese Steak" at a cafe in
California and wonder "What's the big deal?" Come
to Philadelphia, and you'll find out.
The Philadelphia Soft Pretzel
The origins of the Philadelphia soft pretzel can be traced
back to a strong Germanic influence during the early history
of Pennsylvania. During the 1700's, a large proportion of
Pennsylvania's population spoke German - in fact German almost
became the official language! The "Pennsylvania
Dutch" (more correctly called Pennsylvania Germans) still
speak an old German dialect. And, many places in
southeastern Pennsylvania bear German names. Along with the
language came a tradition of pretzel making.
The true Philadelphia soft pretzel:
- is usually bought from a street vendor or small "mom and pop" shop -
seldom from a chain store
- is fresh, soft, and chewy
- comes in a sort of slab in which a number of pretzels
are stuck together
- is sprinkled with just the right amount of coarse salt
Here are a few tips for choosing a good pretzel:
- Never buy pretzels that are wrapped in plastic. They are
almost guaranteed to be stale, soggy, or hard. The best packaging
is a brown paper bag.
- If the pretzels look in the least bit moist, pass them up.
Moisture is caused by the extraction of water by the
salt. This indicates that the pretzel has been sitting
around too long.
- Avoid pretzels that have been reheated by the vendor.
They are usually hard.
- Look for a golden brown color and a "fresh" appearance. If
the pretzel looks good, it probably is good.
Most Philadelphians enjoy their pretzels with a liberal coating of
yellow mustard (Skip the Dijon please!), which is usually applied
by the customer himself from a squeeze bottle. I like to scrape
off most of the salt with my fingers before applying the mustard.
There's enough salt residue left on the pretzel to make it taste
salty without overdosing on sodium.
Don't accept imitations. Believe me, the true
Philadelphia pretzel is worth the search! It
will make your taste buds very happy indeed. And, it will make
you very happy because it's a true "comfort food".
The Italian Sandwiches of Philadelphia
Italian Americans have settled
throughout the Philadelphia region. But, the cultural
heart of this community is certainly South Philadelphia - where
you can find row houses with scrubbed front steps and ornately
decorated interiors - and where traditions die very hard.
Out of South Philadelphia have come the sandwiches that I
consider Philadelphia's greatest contribution to the culinary arts.
What makes them so special? The answer is
simple - it's the rolls! Deep within
South Philadelphia are bakeries whose
hearths yield Italian rolls of unspeakable perfection.
Their crust has a medium texture, midway between the hard
crust of a baguette and the wimpy crust of a packaged supermarket
roll. And, the interior is soft, with a wonderful yeasty taste.
These long rolls are the essential and irreplaceable ingredient
of a true Philadelphia sandwich.
Early each morning, they travel in brown paper
bags from South Philly to small sandwich shops
throughout the city and suburbs. You simply cannot make an
authentic Philadelphia sandwich without an authentic Philadelphia
roll. You can't freeze it, and you can't ship it. You cannot make
a true Philadelphia sandwich in Los Angeles, or Chicago, or New Orleans,
or even in New York. If you are
more than a 1 hour drive from South Philly, forget it - give it up!
Philadelphia Sandwiches Explained
THE HOAGIE
A hoagie is what you might think of as a hero or a submarine sandwich. But,
it's not the same. Slice a fresh Philadelphia Italian roll.
Sprinkle lightly with oil. Then add shredded
lettuce, onions, your sandwich fillings, and sliced tomato.
Finally, sprinkle with oregano, basil, salt, and pepper.
A Philadelphia hoagie normally contains cheese in addition to
the specified filling. So, for example, a roast beef
hoagie contains roast beef plus cheese. The cheese is normally
sliced provolone. If you don't want cheese make sure you say
"No cheese". Pickles are almost never used in a Philadelphia
hoagie.
Hoagie Varieties:
- Italian or "regular" - Italian hams and salamis
- Ham - American style ham
- Tuna - tuna salad
- Roast Beef
- Turkey - turkey breast
- Cheese - just cheese - usually a few varieties
- Vegetarian - lettuce, tomato, onions, peppers, sometimes
eggplant, plus cheese of course
Hoagie Variations:
- "Dry" - hold the oil - less fat, but still tastes great
- "With Mayo" - to many (including me), it sounds sacrilegious,
but hoagies are occasionally ordered with mayo instead of oil
- "No Onions" - for certain social occasions - however,
definitely less tasty
- "With Hot Peppers" - add sliced hot cherry peppers (medium hot flavor)
- "With Sweet Peppers" - add jarred sweet peppers
- "No Cheese" - for those who want to cut fat or who don't want
to mix cheese with meat - still tastes great
- "With American Cheese" - substitute American cheese for the provolone
THE STEAK AND THE CHEESE STEAK
Although most people outside of Philadelphia are familiar with
the Philadelphia cheese steak, locals think in terms of steak
sandwiches with or without cheese. Without cheese, the sandwich is
referred to as a "steak" (not a "steak sandwich"). With cheese, it's
a "cheese steak" (or "cheesesteak" - both spellings are in use).
Beware of any restaurant, even in Philadelphia,
that offers a "Philly Cheese Steak". Most likely, you will be disappointed.
If they have to say "Philly", then it's not authentic!
A Philly steak is not really a steak at all - it's a sandwich made
with shredded beef, cooked on a grill top. The story is often told of the
Philadelphian who ventures to a restaurant in Chicago. He orders his
favorite, a "steak". After some discussion, the waiter determines
that what the customer really wants is a steak sandwich. He
returns with a beautiful thick Chicago steak on a piece of white bread.
The customer is appalled!
Philly Steak Variations:
- "With Onions" - add fried onions
- "With Raw Onions"
- "With Sauce" - top with tomato sauce
- "Pizza Steak" - a cheese steak with tomato sauce
- "With Hot Peppers" - add sliced hot cherry peppers (medium hot flavor)
- "With Sweet Peppers" - add jarred sweet peppers
- "With Cooked Peppers" - as above, but grill the peppers first
- "Steak Hoagie" - a steak sandwich with fresh tomatoes, raw onion, cheese,
and herbs - can also be ordered "without cheese"
- "Chicken Steak" and "Chicken Cheese Steak" - substitute grilled
shredded chicken for the beef - a new concept that is seeking a
market among tradition bound Philadelphians - worth
a try, but not as good as the original.
- "Vegetarian Cheese Steaks" - you can get these at Citizen's Bank ballpark in Philly.
What's in them? I don't know!
The "Philly Lean"
It seems that a well dressed visitor was in town. Desiring to partake of a rea
He was taken to South Philly by
his friend, a native Philadelphian. Knowing how much Mr. Clinton likes to eat (and no slouch
himself), Rendell offered the President a steak from Pat's. As Mr.
Clinton was about to take his first bite, our Mayor asked him if he was
familiar with the Philly "lean," a necessary adjunct to a steak sandwich
from Pat's. Mr. Clinton ignored the remark, opting , instead, to take a
big bite. No dummy, however, as the juice dripped onto his suit front
and sleeve, Mr. Clinton smiled, said, "Oh, I get it!" and bent forward
before he took his second bite!
Where to Get a Philadelphia Sandwich
But, the best place to enjoy a Philadelphia sandwich is in one of the
hundreds of small deli's and luncheonettes that dot the area. If you know a local,
asking him for a recommendation.
Enjoy!
If You Just Can't Get to Philly
If you just can't get to the Philadelphia area, there are places around the country (and the world) that
offer "Philly" sandwiches and pretzels. But... they won't be the same - or even close to the real thing.
So, make the trip.
Revised May 23, 2008
Copyright © 1995 - 2008 Glicksman Associates, Inc. All rights reserved.
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